SICK, Snow, Sevilla, School, Staying

Normally I have to fight the kids to get this shot every time we fly out of Berlin

I normally don't do this. I normally don't write a huge, long-winded, single blog post to sum up an entire month but in this case I am.  It is far more representative of our lives than going back and retroactively filling in the blog.
Marty and I were SICK.  SO, so sick.  I have never been that sick in my entire life.  And as you can imagine it was not fun.   It started with a small cold over the month of December.  We both had it but it wasn't bad.  It was just a cold.  We got over it.  Then mid January Marty starts getting another cough which quickly turned into more flu like symptoms with a couple days of temps near 103.  We went to the Dr. who said it was a virus and the only way to get over it was just to really stop doing everything and rest.  There wasn't much choice, Marty could barely get out of bed.  And I may or may not have assumed he was just being a "man" about it and exaggerating his symptoms.  He called in sick 2 days in a row, which he NEVER does, so I knew it was somewhat serious.  In the end he missed 4 days of work.  As fate would have it a couple days after he came down with it, and long enough for me to roll my eyes a few times at him, I started feeling sick.  But I KNEW I could fight
this.  I would not go down the way he did.  Within 24 hours I was just as sick as he was.  I had a high fever for a couple of days, killer headaches and absolutely no appetite for anything other than throat lozenges, cough medicine and lots of Tylenol.  It was awful.  But I had an upcoming trip to Sevilla planned that I was very much looking forward to.  I debated emailing my friend, Ali, who was meeting me there and telling her that I just couldn't make it but I figured the worst was behind me and I would be fine once I got there.  Well, in a way, it was a big mistake.  I was not better.  Not by a long shot.  It was lovely to see my friend and to walk around one of my very favorite cities but most of the trip was a blur as I had absolutely no energy and most of my awake hours were completely hazed over by my tired, sick body and my head full of snot.

We did go on a couple walking tours which were very interesting and informative.  We had a couple delightful meals. I didn't get my sangria the way I had dreamt as it just never sounded good.  First clue I was REALLY sick when Spanish sangria doesn't sound good!  Ali was extremely patient with me.  Far more patient than I would have probably been had the tables been turned.    She flew back to London on Monday evening and I had one last night by myself before flying out very early on Tuesday morning.  So early in fact that the buses were barely up and running by the time I got to the bus station.  My alarm went off at 3:45 and I made it to the bus station for the first bus of the day at 4:30.  My flight took off for Berlin on time and I was back home in Zehlendorf by 11:30.  When I walked into the
apartment I flopped on the bed and broke out in tears.  I was so thankful just to be home.  But felt just miserable.  The next couple of days were a complete blur.  I know I didn't have the energy or strength to bike the kids to school or make dinner or really do anything.  My head was pounding and it hurt just to open my eyes.  Marty was getting better but still not even near 100% yet.  The kids became very self sufficient.  They biked to and from school solo.  They went to the grocery store.  They biked to pick up dinner for themselves and biked back and ate on their own and even cleaned up some of the time!  Friends would say, "oh, we've been sick too" or "sorry you have been sick" and I wanted to say - No, you clearly don't understand.  We aren't/weren't sick.  We are/were S.I.C.K!!  Like so super sick you have no idea how sick. Now who was exaggerating?

The weekend came again with fresh snow fall.  The kids were in heaven.  It was really the first time out for me in days as I biked with Josie to her Tae Kwon Doe belt test.  Benjamin and Marty were already there because Benjamin had soccer practice previously.  We watched the entire TKD team go through their belt test (nearly 3 lllloooonnngg hours on hard bleachers) but afterward celebrated being up and out with a late lunch at our favorite, local Vietnamese restaurant.

After nearly a year and a half of living in Germany I realized how devoid of color my life is here.
It is almost as if the German are afraid of color.
My eyes burned, in a good way, at all the beautiful colors in Sevilla. 

Later that afternoon we all had to go back to school for the 5th-8th grade musical.  Josie is in the choir ensemble and was part of the play.  Another couple hours of sitting but Josie did great and Benjamin loved seeing the play for his 2nd time.

Sunday we played Risk, which Benjamin is infatuated with at the moment.  We cleaned up the apartment a bit and the kids read for a couple of hours.  Then we hopped a train for a very nice evening out at Wannsee with our friends Luke and Juli and their kids Henry and Leo along with Anja and Kyle and their kids Maya and Rory.  We went on a 6km walk through the forest and although very nice it might have been a bit much for me on the heels of being so sick.  Juli made a fabulous meal with pure comfort foods and we all left satisfied with friendship and full bellies.

This was our celebratory treat after
making the decision to stay
another year. 

Yesterday I started taking intensive German language classes again.  My head is still not quite right and I have so much snot coming out of my nose it is embarrassing.  It is still the color of deli mustard and the consistency of paste.  I know I'm not even near back to 100% but classes begin when they begin.  This time it is a short bus or train ride away.  Or I could walk 45 minutes or when the weather is better and I have more energy I could bike 20 but so far I have taken the bus.  It is Tuesday through Friday from 9AM until 1PM with an hour or so of homework each night.  I like my new classmates and new teachers.  I am definitely rusty with speaking but am impressed that I can totally hold my own with understanding and answering simple questions when I know the context.  I plan to take either just this 5 week course and/or another 5 to make a total of 10 weeks.  I have 2 weeks to decide if I will continue with the second 5 week section.

I'm so German.  I bring along a little
sandwich and a thermos of coffee to
class each day. 

And last but not least.  Some of the most important news is that we are STAYING.  For another year at least.  We have had long conversations with each other and with each of the kids.  Benjamin wants to stay "at least 2 more years" Josie wants to return to Seattle because "her whole life is there"  After a few pro/con lists, several teary talks, a few outbursts and a lot of mutual understanding we all agree that we just aren't done here yet.  And this decision came just before we got sick.  Let me tell you, nothing makes you want to pack up and move "home" like being so sick and feeling so fragile and vulnerable.  But we know this is the right place for us for now.  The kids are thriving, the country is just very livable (apart from the bitchiness and directness we encounter from some Germans nearly every day) the school is really the biggest reason we can't leave along with all of the amazing opportunities that living in Europe gives us.  Just after deciding to stay we found awesome renters who will rent our West Seattle home for the next academic year and we plan to come home for all of July and the first part of August.

So, phew!!  That is our January in one long blog post.  Hoping as February begins in brings with it renewed energy and complete healing for Marty and me and that the kids don't get it.  And that we try to find ways to enjoy the cold, dark, winter days.

Happy New Year

Our LOONGG drive back from Krakow was mostly non eventful, just the way we like it.  The kids played Uno for a lot of the time, read books, listened to music.  They don't do screen time anymore after one too many backseat barfing episodes from Benjamin because he often gets car sick if he is looking at his screen while driving.  Trust me, there was enough barfing going on in this car by me the couple days before 😳

We decided to stop in Cottbus for dinner and because we have so rudely been turned down by our favorite German restaurant there so many times in the past we had a back up plan but just had to give it one more go and see if we could get in.  Despite the fact that it has been nearly empty each time we have gone, the Kartoffelkiste has become our Seinfeld

version of the Soup Nazi.  "No room for you!!"   Lo and behold, they had room this time, but barely. They always look at you pained as if to say "why in the world did

you come in here?"  Customer service is lacking in Germany but particularly in Cottbus!
We ate and drank and were all happily full for our hour-ish ride home to Berlin.  But since the ice cream place was still open we all mustered up the energy and stomach space for some ice cream. 

When ice cream (a HUGE scoop) is only 1.20 € a piece, you gotta make room.
We arrived home, all exhausted and plopped into bed.
The next day we had to return the rental car.  We very much love living without a car. 

The kids got to pick 2 beverages for NYE and NY day
They were thrilled with coke and Vio bio lemon/lime. 

But when we have access to a car we try to do a bit of stocking up, particularly with liquids.  I never really thought about this before because I always had my car when shopping but liquids are so heavy and hard to transport on foot or on bike.

We got up early and hit the drink store and the grocery store and mostly stocked up on liquids before returning the car.  And because it was New Years Eve and we didn't want to be out in crazy Berlin on NYE we decided to eat lunch out instead of dinner.  We hit our favorite Indian restaurant and the grocery store (because everything is closed on New Year's Day) While at the grocery store Marty and Benjamin notice a HUGE firework display right in the grocery store.  Huge packs of what look like dynamite 6 sticks for 5 € or something crazy cheap.  Huge packets with dozens of fireworks for under 20€.  I wouldn't have probably noticed these last year because back then I had NO

idea how crazy the Berliners actually get on NYE.  Benjamin, being the little pyromaniac that he is, begged and begged for just some "quiet" ones.  He knows that Josie and I hate the sound and always feel badly for pets and vets on 4th of July.  We got 3 bottle rocket types and he was thrilled.
We made it home and waited for it to get dark, which this time of year doesn't take much past noon.  No, in all seriousness the sunset on Dec 31st at 4:00PM (the days are getting longer, ha!) So we walked to a nearby park around 5PM and let them off.  They were quiet and pretty and everyone was happy.  Although Benjamin was now wishing we had bought the larger party pack!

 For dinner the kids wanted "snacks" no dinner, just snacks.  So I made homemade salsa and guacamole.  Loads of cut up vegetables and ranch dip. Fruit, crackers, cheese, etc.  Everyone was happy.
We played some games and then Marty and I went to bed and the kids stayed up to watch a movie.  We knew full well we would be woken up at midnight.  This wasn't our first time to this rodeo.  Last year we were in utter shock and disbelief and how the Germans (over) celebrate this holiday.  It is a virtual war zone with fire works and explosions, as if you are at the foot of a professional firework display for their finale

Salsa! I love salsa and even though I hate having
to make it every time I want it because Berlin
does NOT do salsa I so savor it each and every time
that I do. 

that ends up lasting 90 minutes!  All right from our sleepy little corner of Berlin.  I cannot imagine what it must be like in the city center!
And that is a wrap.  Goodbye to 2018. Hello 2019!  Hoping for continued health, more peace and much traveling in the new year.

Krakow

We woke up Saturday morning and I was only feeling about 50 %.  I had the pack of Wonder bread Marty had bought at the grocery store the night before and brought several slices with me down to breakfast.  It was the only thing I could imagine stomaching.  I toasted it and ate several pieces.  Still feeling a bit ill but I was determined to see Krakow.  I had booked us on a free walking tour of the city.  Every city we have been to here in Europe we try to do these Free Walking Tours and not just because they are cheap - they only ask for a tip at the end which we happily give generously.  But the fact that you can reserve a tour but not have to financially commit to

it is perfect for our style of travel.  Things change last minute and I never want to be too tied down when traveling.  Plus the guides we have had so far have all been amazing.  Normally history or anthropology or art history majors or teachers. People who are really passionate about their city with loads of historical information and almost always a spot on restaurant recommendation.  Krakow Free Walking tour was no different.  Although it was cold and the kids complained a fair amount about being cold, and walking too much and being bored they really did learn a lot and were able to retain it when we talked about the city later that day.

After the tour we went to a "Milk Bar" which is apparently their idea of a cheap diner and there are many of them.  My friend, Liz, who had lived in Krakow recommended a few places to me and we went to the Milk Bar she suggested.  It was awesome.  A plate of pierogis (like dumplings) a huge schnitzel platter and an omlette meal plate.  No drinks this time other than water but the entire meal with tip came to 12 Euro.

After lunch we walked around a bit more and to another one of Liz's recommendations which was this cool chocolate lounge.  There was a long line to sit in the back of the restaurant and the outside (in plastic tents with heating lamps) was all full but there was room in the front part of the restaurant.  After sitting down and waiting for 45

minutes we realized why no one was sitting up there was because every time the front door opened a large draft of arctic air blew in.  We stayed mostly coated up and were fine.  The kids each picked a treat and we all shared.

By then we were all pretty tired to so headed back to the hotel to rest.  But after many card games, book reading and some screen time we decided we weren't necessarily starving but would be pretty hungry if we didn't go get something

for dinner.  The walking tour guide had recommended this cool, all vegan burger place so we headed back to the center of town with this place in mind.
It was really super good.  Even Benjamin liked it.  I'm always amazed how people can cook such delicious things that are completely vegan. We eat very little meat and I do vegetarian all the time but vegan is a whole other level.  Like no eggs or dairy for the sauces.  Whatever they used it was amazing.  We all left stuffed again with not even room for an after dinner treat.

Auschwitz

When we decided to visit Krakow we knew that within an hour was probably the most infamous concentration camp, Auschwitz.  We debated long about if the kid are old enough to handle this place and its heavy, dark past.  We knew that Auschwitz would be referenced so many times in their lives and we wanted them to know that it was real and that *it* should never happen again.  No matter how you define *it* - racism, oppression, destruction, devastation, ravaging, genocide, mass murder, etc. Never again.
On Saturday morning we woke up with the intent of driving to Birkenau - Auschwitz II first and then on to the Auschwitz I - the museum, after.   We arrived at Birkenau by 10:30 or 11. It was just an hour or so drives from Krakow and through small back, windy roads.  There are houses and small stores and restaurants within just a few blocks of the actual work camp.  Before we got out of the car Marty reminded them of all that we talked about over breakfast as we tried to explain to the kids what had happened at these work camps.  He reminded them that there would be no joke or laughing.  Marty tends to try to lighten the mood on things by joking.  The kids knew he was serious when he said - NO laughing, no joking.  This place is a memorial and out of respect to the people who lived here we need to recognize how horrible it was and what those people went through.
The kids, to their credit, took it VERY seriously.  It was a very cold, wet, winter day.  I'm sure if you were to visit in the heat of summer you would be able to imagine the misery of not enough shade or water but visiting it in the winter really was somber.  Trying to imagine these people (over 125,000!!) were forced to face.  Without proper clothing, without proper nutrition, barely any heat and then forced to work or just sent to die.  It was brutal but we did our own self guided tour and so were able to tailor what we said and how we said it to the kids. In the end they definitely were able to grasp that beyond horrific things were done to an unbelievable amount of people on this land just 70 ish years ago.
After Birkenau we drove to the Auschwitz I with the intent of going through the museum. It was December 28th and like I said very cold and bleak and so we did not expect to see the lines we saw there.  We stood in line to get in and then realized that we needed a prebooked ticket which we did not have.  So walked around the outside a bit and then were planning to grab lunch and head to the Salt Mines.  Unfortunately on the drive out I started feeling sick.  I'm not sure if I had what the kids had or it was food poisoning from breakfast but as we were driving through the windy roads I just lost it... several times.  It was like your worst nightmare.  We were an hour away from the hotel, the hotel was no where near any place with food, the kids were starving, I was barfing, we needed to get somewhere as there weren't any "pull out on the side of the road" type places.  Marty forged ahead without his co-pilot to give directions (our car did not have GPS) Every small little place we tried to find to eat was closed and then there was a car crash that blocked an entire direction of traffic making it take 4 times the length of time to get somewhere.  Marty finally found an open, small pizza place.  It looked like half dirty, old laundromat and the DMV.  There were 2 or 3 small little tables but the kids were starving and I just wanted to go to the bathroom and wash my hands.  But, NO bathrooms here.
Marty and the kids sat and ate and I walked around the teeny, tiny village looking for a public bathroom.  I finally found one in the public library upstairs.  I love libraries and always have and even half way around the world I know they will be friendly and have toilets.  And they did.
After pizza we still had plans to go to the salt mines. Everyone said we should just go back to the hotel but when you travel the way we have been traveling with just 2-3 days in each city, if you scrap a whole half of a day that leaves you with very little.  I said I could rally and we should go to the salt mines anyway. Unfortunately within minutes back in the car I was already throwing up again. So Marty made an executive decision and we just drove back to the hotel.  I barely made it out of my clothes and into my pajamas before collapsing into bed.
The kids were in heaven.  Their favorite thing to do on vacation is just sit around the hotel room playing card games, reading or having screen time.  Their dream vacation time was topped off when Marty suggested he go and get me a few things in case I felt hungry overnight - crackers or white bread, bananas and apple juice.  He and Josie found a huge grocery store and right next to it a McDonalds.  We NEVER eat McDonalds and we never bring food back and eat it in our hotel room.  Benjamin was SO happy but was so confused.  We normally only eat McDonalds about once a year and back when we landed in Mallorca it was the easiest thing at the airport.  He said "No, wait.  We already had McDonalds for this year!!"  haha.  So my loss and their gain.  They were happy campers.

Drive to Krakow - Dinner in Katowice

On the 27th of December, the day after "2nd Christmas" we rented a car to drive to Krakow, Poland.  We have been SO lazy so far this vacation sleeping in well past anything we ever have before. We don't even go to bed that late.  I really think it is our body's way of hibernating.  The sun sets around 3:45 (!?!) and doesn't rise again until around 8:20.  Making a very long, dark, sleepy afternoon/evening/morning.
So we didn't go pick up the rental car until past noon and after packing up the car it put us on the road for our 6 hour drive not until nearly 2PM.  So unlike us.  The sun only had an hour and a half before setting.  But we were all in good spirits and ready for our first official road trip.  Even though we told the kids a road trip is usually when you go to more than one place.

As it was nearing 7pm we were driving through Katowice and we were all getting hungry. Travel snacks had been devoured within minutes of starting the trip and I looked up a restaurant that we found with barely any trouble and it turned out to be one of the best meals we have had in Europe.  Just a small little pub type place called Mr. Fox Pub. 

It wasn't that the food was all that delicious, although it was super

good but everyone was happy with their order.  Burger for Benjamin, pizza for Josie, spaghetti bolognese for Marty and I got a grilled halloumi cheese salad. Everything super tasty and perfectly cooked. I also had definitely the best beer I've had since arriving.  Some Polish IPA.  It was SO good and then to top off the great meal, the staff were allsuper friendly and our bill with tip was under 25€.  People had told us that Poland was really inexpensive but we didn't think we would notice a difference because we consider Berlin inexpensive but yes, Poland was even more so.
We walked around for a few minutes after dinner to see just a bit of the city and then hopped back into the car for the final hour of our journey.  We arrived, tired and ready for sleep.

Christmas #1 and #2

Christmas morning came with the excitement it always does when you have kids.  Thankfully, they sleep in now until nearly 8AM.  I had made a couple of overnight breakfast recipes that just needed to be popped in the oven so I made some coffee, put the two dishes in the oven and then we sat down to open "Santa" gifts and stockings even though neither of them believe anymore.

Normally I'm pretty good about cleaning up the mayhem that transcends a room after opening so many gifts but for some reason I just let it go.  We sat down among the already very messy living room and opened more gifts.  A lot of the gifts were things that Marty brought back from Seattle.  Things we had to leave because our first move here was just for one year and many things we could do without for just one year.  One year turned into two and those things - many birthday and Christmas gifts from past years- were just sitting in our basement.  It was the very best of re-gifting.

One of the gifts the kids received was a gift certificate for a "family pack" at the movies.  Normally I never buy movie snacks.  I make way better popcorn, I personally don't like the theater popcorn (way too salty) and who really needs a HUGE soda.  The family pack is for 4 movie tickets, 4 bags of popcorn and 4 sodas.  The kids like the snacks as much, if not more, than the movie.  So on Christmas day, without any other plans, we decided to head into town and redeem their movie gift.  We got the family pack and the kids were thrilled. We saw Mary Poppins and it was really a nice change to watch a wholesome, lighthearted, fantastical movie. 
The next day we were invited to our friend Juli and Luke's for Boxing Day or as the Germans refer to it "Second Christmas" Josie was feeling sick all morning and into the afternoon.  She slept on the couch for hours and by the time it was ready to leave we decided she should just stay home. 
Juli made a delicious ham with potatoes and fancy dessert.  All the comforts of a gourmet meal that I don't have time or energy for.  So good.

Just missing Maya (who was under the table) and
Josie who was home sick. 

Along with Juli, Luke and their boys there was also our friends Anja and Kyle (the 6 of us adults are part of a Supper Club but we are all so busy we don't get out as much as we would all like) Also Anja's mom and dad were there visiting for the Holidays from London.  Such a VERY nice and fulfilling (in every way) 1st and 2nd Christmas.

Frohe Weihnachten

We weren't sure what to do with our first truly solo Christmas - just the four of us.  Marty knew he wanted the traditional German hot dogs and potato salad for dinner.  He grew up with this and since we are here in thebirthplace of German hot dogs and potato salad it was easy to just pick up at the store.  They have about 6 different types of potato salad at the German butcher shop and everyone here must have the same tradition as the line to purchase this was about 15 long and out the door.  We bought a couple smallish containers of potato salad so we could try two different kinds.  They were good but nowhere near as good as when Marty's sister, Liz, makes it for Christmas.  The hot dogs here might be better though.

All the kids wanted was to open gifts, which were growing in number under our petite little tree.  Benjamin had a couple of melt downs in the waiting process.  And

all I wanted was for us to get out of the house and to one of the dozens of beautiful Christmas markets all around town.  Truth be told, I really just wanted a family photo and what better place for it than on Christmas Eve at a Christmas Market.  I wanted Marty to see the beauty of Gendarmentmarkt and I was hoping it would be somewhat less crowded than when Simone and I went there last week.

After a big of cajoling and an after photo treat the kids put on a smile and although Josie's eyes are a bit squinty, we got one.
The after pic treat was a waffle this time and, of course, they had to have whipped cream on it and then they couldn't eat it without just slurping it off the top which they did happily.
With sticky fingers and faces

we walked around the market,saw a performance but a couple of very talented gymnast/circus type performers, Benjamin was flirted with and handed a small candy by one of the famous Angels of the market. 
We trained it home and then walked from the sbahn on a frigid and bitterly windy night.  Inside the warmth and light of our apartment Marty and I had the hot dogs and potato salad while the kids enjoyed a smorgasbord of food from the very full fridge.

Finally it was time for gifts and the kids were very excited and very thankful for their many gifts from many different family members.  Some of the favorite gifts were things that Marty picked up while he was in Seattle from our basement where we store all of our prized possessions while renting out the rest of our house.  Marty searched through boxes and bags and found some of their favorite things that they had left behind in the move.  Big hit!!